From Literature to Lapidarium to Bar Lemon

4 Oct

Zagreb is a compact city, settled between two hills. It fits in completely in the European mold; that is, it has architectural character and a coat of grime. Bit of a graffiti problem, too. Here are my two favorite examples. Note the very, erm, urban phrasing on the smaller text:


The city is most charming at night, with the buildings lit to show their figures to advantage, and the streetcars shushing along with quiet grace. We walked around the square a bit before the opening of the Zagreb Literary Talks, which are sponsored by the DZK (Zagreb Writers’ Association). A kind and gracious group, like all Croatians fiercely proud of their country. Tomorrow the conference begins in earnest, but tonight they were content to feed us. In case you’re wondering, Croatian cuisine features LOTS of cheese, really good prosciutto, fresh vegetables, bread, and very nice wine from local grapes. So. NOT lo-carb. But so very tasty.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped by the Lapidarium, a sculpture garden run by the Zagreb Archeological museum. A courtyard, the space is filled with marbles from ancient Greece and Rome. And service from Lemon Bar across the street.
A word to the wise: a split of Moet Chandon costs every bit as much as it does in the States. Stick with the regional wine.

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