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And so we end where we began…

7 Oct


Or at least where civilization began, to a degree. The Roman Amphitheater at Pula was built early in the first century CE. It is rare even among its brethren, in that it is the only one with four sides and all three architectural orders intact. It is also the sixth largest in the world. Anyone […]

“This is Illyria, Lady”

6 Oct


Its contemporary name is Istria. Somewhere along this coast Shakespeare’s Viola stumbled cold and grieving from the sea. Its vineyards, olive groves, and truffle grounds would have made Orsino a very rich man indeed. I had two days to see it before getting on a plane for Texas. Over 48 hours, we visited a tiny […]

Horseflesh and Meat Fest (Two Separate Things) in the Croatian Countryside

6 Oct

 A morning spent wandering around the upper town gave me a chance to see some of the oldest and most storied parts of Zagreb. The Church of St. Mark depicts on its roof the old coats of arms for Croatia, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Zagreb (no separation of church and state necessary in 1882, when the […]

From Literature to Lapidarium to Bar Lemon

4 Oct

Zagreb is a compact city, settled between two hills. It fits in completely in the European mold; that is, it has architectural character and a coat of grime. Bit of a graffiti problem, too. Here are my two favorite examples. Note the very, erm, urban phrasing on the smaller text: The city is most charming […]